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Horsing Around in Yellowstone

Friday, July 25, 2008

Let me just say I’m not keen on horse riding. But somehow I ended up on the back of one at Canyon Corral while we were in Yellowstone. Granted, it was totally geared for mainstream greenhorns. You plod along a trail for an hour, and the hardest thing you do is lift your horse’s head away from the grass it keeps trying to eat. For Leah, who is spending the summer working at a stable and helping run horse camps, who loves nothing better than to canter around a field all afternoon, and whose favorite smell is horse manure, it was downright boring. For me, not.

Sneezy and Joanna

Before we set out, Jessica, the head cowgirl, sat us down—about 15 of us—for a few pointers. Which mainly consisted of trotting out all the stories of people falling off while they were fiddling with their cameras (hence, no cameras allowed) or when their horses spooked because someone’s baseball cap blew off (no caps allowed either). “Also,” she said, “normally horses need to have a little space, but we ask that you keep these horses nose to tail because bison have been known to charge our line-up.”

Well, that’s just great. (And partway through the ride, I learned my husband’s horse actually had a scar from being gored by a bison. I did not need to know that.) Here’s the truth: The last time I was on a horse, at 12, it didn’t go well. I was just sitting on my horse, minding my own business, but I was also holding the reigns of a second horse while my two friends were trying to round up a third horse who’d escaped his corral. The horse whose reigns I was holding brushed against the horse I was sitting on and next thing I knew, I was flying through the air. Right after I hit the ground, something very big rolled on me. Only momentarily, mind you, but it was enough to knock the wind out of me, and when I finally could breathe, my ribs hurt like a mother. In fact, taking a deep breath of any kind hurt for six months.

So, when one of the horses at Canyon got a watering hose wrapped around his foot and freaked, I was not happy. This was while the cowboys were helping folks up onto their horses. The kids, about six of them, were all down at the other end of the corral and didn’t even notice, but the two horses near me already had mounted riders, and those horses got agitated and it was clear neither rider knew what to do to calm them. I was still on the ground between the fence and my horse, not far from the agitated horses. But all the employees were busy trying to get the hose off the horse’s hoof, and left the “riders” to figure out their horses on their own, while Hosey careened around, flicking its leg out behind itself. My horse kept shifting closer to me, while I meanwhile was eyeballing an escape route through the split-rail fence if he got too close. I did not need squashed ribs again.

And here’s the thing about horse riding: you’re not supposed to let your horse know you’re nervous, because “they can tell,” everyone says. So even if the cowboys can’t tell, my horse surely can, and how am I supposed to fake it? And that in itself is stressful. By the time I got on my horse I was completely pretending I wanted to be here. But they did give me a super mellow horse, who did nothing more than twitch his skin to rid himself of mosquitoes, so maybe they did know, after all.

The ride itself was beautiful, through open, rolling country (I kept my eye open for bison, of course). But we also rode on a narrower trail directly next to a canyon edge (ah, so that’s why they call it Canyon). I don’t know if other people were nervous, too, but I noticed that the only people talking were the kids. Maybe the adults were meditating on the views. I, myself, was so busy not looking down and praying no one would be stung by a bee while we were a foot away from the edge that I had a hard time taking in anything.

But we made it back to the corral without any mishaps, and I wondered if Jessica had made up those stories. Still, I was so relieved to swing off my horse at the end of the ride that I’m thinking I might sit out the horse riding next time.

 

Yellowstone with Pictures

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

We’re home, and settling into the green of western Washington. We had a great trip, but I am always reminded when I come home of what a beautiful place we live in. However, Montana is now high on my list of livable places. I'll tell you why another time. 

Meanwhile, I highly recommend the northern part of Yellowstone. That said, I'm glad we saw as much of the more southern thermal activity as we did (and we could have done a lot more) because Leah loved it. I was surprised by her enthusiasm, but I think this was her favorite part of the park. If you decide to go, don't forget to make reservations early at travelyellowstone.com (I actually talked to a person on the phone who made recommendations). As in now for next summer. Or at least this winter for next summer. Even if you're camping. It's that busy.

bison on centerlineTy’s highlight: The bison walking down the centerline in the Lamar Valley (a beautiful place indeed). Actually, the real highlight was watching Leah, normally a hardy soul, panic as we squeezed past in the left lane. I wanted to take a close-up photo of this guy, but we were so close I couldn’t get him in the frame, and I decided, too, it might be better not to make eye contact as we were moving past. What if he decided to butt the car? What then? 

Leah’s highlight: Sapphire Pool near the Firehole River, not far from Old Faithful. Sapphire PoolAlthough the pool is beautifully blue and enticing, you wouldn’t want to swim here. Too hot. About as hot as you can get, in fact (the bluer the pool, the hotter the temperature). Wildlife like to hang out among the thermal pools, particularly in the winter, but they risk breaking through the thermal crust, and, yes, even animals make mistakes. Think bleached bones.

Curt and Joanna’s highlight: Hiking Mt. Washburn to a panoramic view at 10,243 feet. Curt loves hiking, and I was happy to discover that my ankle didn’t complain. (And I love hiking too, as well as wildflowers, which were in full bloom). We both loved not driving for a while.family on Mt. Washburn

Other highlights: Uncle Tom’s Trail with 328 steps to get down to the viewing platform in the “Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.” The yellow rock of the canyon is what gives Yellowstone its name.

steps again

falls from AP The view of the “Grand Canyon” from Artist Point. 

And while not a highlight, the crowds at Old Faithful did make for good people watching. You have to go there in a sociological frame of mind or you could end up irritated.  

OF crowds and benches

Overheard conversations: From a dad to his four-year-old son: "You have to what? We were just at the bathrooms."

From a dad to his teenage son: "We're going to figure out a place to have some lunch." Unintelligible muttering from son. Dad: "I don't care if your mom said you could have ice cream, we're having lunch first." More unintelligible muttering. Dad: "Lunch!" 

Ah, the universal language of parenting that makes you feel like maybe you're not doing so badly after all. I haven't mentioned our horse ride at all. Next time. 

 

Yellowstone

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Okay, so I’m learning that updating from the road is downright hard. No Wi-Fi in campgrounds that I’ve discovered. Right now we’re staying with a friend in Missoula and I’m tapping into her Internet. And I haven’t downloaded any Yellowstone pictures either, so here are a few quick highlights without photos. Will post a few of those when we’re home in two days.

Yellowstone highlights:

  • Hiking Mt. Washburn to a lookout at 10,243 feet, round trip 6.4 miles. Really spectacular.
  • Horseback riding at sunset. Okay, this was slow and boring, according to Leah—a very canned ride—but the scenery from the trail was beautiful (and canned though it was, my butt hurt all the next day).
  • Driving the Lamar Valley and seeing lots of bison, one even walking down the center line with very little passing room for us. I think it was less than a foot away when we actually got by.
  • Checking out the thermal action, including Old Faithful, which is a trip in itself because of the masses.
  • Walking down 328 steps to get a view of the falls in the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. (And walking back up again.)

 

I’m sure there are many more, but this will do for now.
 

Road Trip

Thursday, July 10, 2008

We are headed out on a road trip tomorrow (Friday) to Yellowstone. Not surprisingly, today is full of getting all our ducks in a row, including, most importantly, purchasing car treats. In our family, car treats are always sugary. I can’t even remember now when the tradition started, but it's well embedded now.

We also went to the library for books on CD—another tried and true tradition. I have some workbooks stashed, and my mom put together a packet we haven’t opened yet, but I trust it will be good. She’s of the generation that traveled on backroads because freeways didn’t exist yet, and part of the fun invariably involved changing a flat tire or two. Boredom busters are always wise, I've learned, but I'm also a big fan of kids staring out the window. And you know, my kids don't even mind anymore.

I plan/hope to update this blog along the way with our adventures. We’re heading to Missoula to stay with a couple of my childhood friends, and then we’ll head south to Yellowstone. I hear it will be hot and crowded, but we’re still looking forward to it.

Until then, may the weather here continue along its summery way…
 

Skipping Ski-to-Sea

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

We bucked the community trend this weekend and went to Lummi Island on Sunday to ride bikes and tour a couple artist studios (it was the Memorial Day Artists’ Studio Tour) and visit my parents (I grew up on Lummi). Not that I have anything against Ski-to-Sea, mind you, but getting out of town on this weekend can be a nice change of pace.

The studio that my kids especially liked, though words like “weird” and “creepy” were thrown around a lot, was Ann Morris's studio and outdoor sculpture tour. Ann has a penchant for metaphor and the human body, and she sculpts the body in unusual ways. The sculptures are life-sized and placed in various shady nooks around her property, so visitors get to go on a hunt to find them.

On a beautiful sunny day, her place is magical. My kids found every trail through the trees and ferns and located every sculpture. Ty’s favorite was Death’s Sister, probably the darkest of the art, but for some reason this piece really resonated with him.

I had thought I might have to provide a complicated explanation for The Dance of Life, which features a woman, a minotaur, and certain body parts that are, uh, erect. But if my kids noticed, they didn’t comment. Nor did they ask why the woman was sitting on the minotaur’s nose. (If you’re squeamish about your kids viewing naked bodies, this isn’t the place for you.)

To get around, we rode our bikes, which, to a parent, can feel treacherous with the lack of shoulder and various blind corners. But the kids rode the shoulders like champs and grunted up the biggest hills without complaint—if you’ve ridden out there, you know those hills. I was impressed and feel we've graduated as a family. Now at last bike riding as a means of transportation is starting to feel like a reality. (Ty and town traffic is still something we're working on.)

Later, Ty topped off his day with his favorite activity: catching snakes. My parents have a compost pile that crawls with them—I didn’t know this until last weekend—and Ty likes to catch them and put them in a terrarium that my mom has at the ready. As a little guy, before he started school, Ty visited the island every week and spent his days catching snakes, tadpoles, frogs, grasshoppers…if it moved, he caught it. He doesn’t visit as often now, but he still loves catching animals.

Leah pleaded with him to return the snakes to their habitat, sooner rather than later, and finally offered to pay him for every snake he released. Leah is a smart girl, but I don’t think she ever noticed that Ty suddenly got interested in catching more snakes. (Ty will be the biology student who loves dissecting frogs while Leah stands outside picketing the practice and championing frog rights.)

When the sun is out, Lummi is a spectacular place to visit (and even when the sun isn’t, it’s beautiful). Be warned: the ferry rates are going up pretty substantially next week. See the new rates in Ferry Fares Effective 6-1-08. I predict our family will be taking our bikes across a whole lot more often and leaving the car on Gooseberry Point.
 

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